LONDON — Although it was a unique fashion week, London designers were up to the challenge and displayed first-rate collections. Buyers loved the silvery shine, embellishment and sheer fabrics that were all over the runways.
The week was held against the backdrop of mourning for Queen Elizabeth II, and her funeral. Designers paid their respects in many ways with flowers, messages, and nods to her style throughout the years.
While the queen’s death disrupted many show and travel plans, the mood during the week was remarkably buoyant. It’s clear that everyone is eager to get dressed up again and get back to business post-COVID-19.
This is where retailers from Europe and America discuss key trends, their favourite collections and fashion moments.
Liane Wiggins is the head of womenswear for Matchesfashion
Favorite collections We loved Simone Rocha’s powerful take on femininity and the venue — the Old Bailey — felt momentous. Highlights were the amazing veils, sequined embroidery and satin khaki bomber styles, strong separates, and tulle. We loved the new styling of the footwear, bags, and jewelry.
Show format that is best: S.S. Daley displayed his stunning collection at the Renaissance Hotel, which has strong influences from Sissinghurst Gardens. We loved Erdem’s poignant show at the British Museum and Christopher Kane at Camden’s Roundhouse was a great location.
Top trends Simone Rocha and Christopher Kane were able to see embellishments and sheen at Molly Goddard, Nensi Gojaka, Molly Goddard, and Nensi Dojaka. Repair and restoration, from JW Anderson’s destroyed chainmail and Erdem’s patchwork.
Nensi Donjaka and Christopher Kane have metallic and high-shine options. Statement skirts available at 16Arlington. Chopova Lowerena. Christopher Kane. Simone Rocha. Erdem. New bags to watch include 16Arlington’s Kikka bag, Molly Goddard’s ruffle styles, Simone Rocha’s backpacks and S.S. Daley’s totes.
Must-have items: Simone Rocha’s khaki satin bomber, Christopher Kane’s chainmail embellished T-shirt, 16Arlington’s gray tailored crystal embellished skirt, S.S. Daley’s silk pants and Molly Goddard’s polka dot tulle dress.
New talent: Standing Ground at Fashion East, Carzana for super-interesting, deconstructed textiles, and we are excited to see more from Sinead O’Dwyer.
The week’s impressions: Many fitting tributes were paid to Queen Elizabeth II through fashion. We are thrilled to see so many emerging talents continue to attend London Fashion Week.
Rickie De Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections Standout shows included Simone Rocha’s powerful menswear debut alongside a breathtaking collection of sublime romantic frocks; JW Anderson’s fun and unexpected collection; Erdem’s divinely intricate gowns; Nensi Dojaka’s updated take on sophisticated sexiness; Molly Goddard’s colorful finale was sheer happiness.
Top trends We saw lots of skin on runways this season, with a celebration and dressing for all types of bodies. The continuation of the bright colors we saw in New York, Space-Age Silver and party-ready embellishments is the key to spring’s boldness. We also saw a delicate side to the collections in London: dainty florals and soft patterns, tulle layering, pastel hues and ethereal embroideries.
Must-have items: Slipdress by JW Anderson
New talent: We loved Chopova Lowena’s first runway show as well as S.S. Daley’s strong showing on the heels of his LVMH Prize win.
The week’s impressions: London saw great creativity this season, with strong BFC support to cultivating new talent. Tributes to the monarchy were shared by designers and guests throughout fashion week with heartfelt appreciation for the queen’s dedication to the arts.
Bosse Myhr, director for womenswear and menswear in Selfridges
Favorite collections Simone Rocha & Christopher