New Yves Saint Laurent Exhibit Shows How He Created ‘Sheer’ Trend

Ciara in Dundas. Janelle Monáe in Area. Sabrina Carpenter in Paco Rabanne. Ellie Goulding in Zuhair Murad. Florence Pugh in Valentino, and at least half a dozen times at that.

The list goes on.

For all the talk about 2023 being the year of the sheer dress — a trend going strong into 2024 if Valentino, Schiaparelli and RVDK Ronald van der Kemp’s most recent couture collections were any indication — a new exhibit at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris uncovers the historical roots of the look that dominates today.

“Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent,” which opens Friday at the designer’s eponymous museum in Paris, shines a new light on his groundbreaking work with transparent textiles and his continuing influence.

For his fall ’66 couture collection, Saint Laurent debuted his first sheer look in a dress of Cigaline fabric with strategically placed sequins. Two years later, he followed with a see-through pussy-bow blouse paired with a le Smoking jacket, and one of his most legendary looks: a sheer gown with an ostrich feather skirt. The top completely exposed the chest of model Danielle Luquet.

He was the first designer to “free the nipple.”